Mauser Model 1914-Updated

Last week while browsing a few pawn shops in my hometown I stumbled upon something that caught my eye.  It was a Mauser model 1914 chambered in 7.65 (32ACP).  I was looking at pocket pistols and certainly didn't have this in mind but it looked cool, it was old, German, and pre WWII.  Whats not to love!?

It was labeled as a "1939" but serial numbers proved that to be wrong.

This gun was produced sometime between 1924-1929.

  When inspecting the pistol at the shop, and checking out the other side of the gun it was apparent there was a hack job attempted on the grip.  The original Mauser 1914 grips are a straight one piece walnut wrap around grip.  When removing them to totally strip the gun you have to be careful with them...  The last owner was not.  There was also some pitting on the slide/barrel that I'm guessing came from sitting in a padded case with a little neglect for a little too long.  But for a 90 year old pistol not too bad.

    

     Next up was the the action.  Neither me, or the store manager could figure out the action.  I was dissapointed, I couldn't get the slide on this little Mauser to slide forward after cocking it back.  By luck we got it to go forward a few times.  The trigger also just sort of clicked...  What was wrong with this Mauser? Was it just an old busted up pawn shop find?(yes)  Will this old girl shoot?(maybe)  Inside the barrel looked pretty good.

     So I held off, went home, did some research and figured the pistol out.  Yep, I was sold already. The next day I went back in the shop and checked out the action, The action actually functioned as designed.  Pull the slide back cocking the gun.  Slam in the mag, and the slide slams forward.  After firing it will continue to blowback and chamber another round until epmty, then the slide will hold open, until you remove the magazine and insert another one, chambering the next round and ready to shoot...  Cool  

     The next problem, sometimes the old Mauser would do what on the range would equate to a slam fire.  After cocking, inserting a mag, and as the slide would return to the firing position the firing pin(and cocking indicator) would slam forward as the slide hit home.

   Mauser 1914 cocking indicator.







     Something was obviously a little awry.  But I just had to have it.  The fact that neither store workers knew anything about the pistol, and the slam fire issues, I was able to walk away with the pistol for what I wanted, not what was on the tag.  It still needed some work, but hey, I've put together an AR-15, and I can watch YouTube videos with the best of em' right?

    

 Below is a picture of the Mauser 1914 7.65 with the barrel removed, and the slide, and side plate taken off.  I have also taken out the disconnector, and trigger while trying to diagnose the "slam fire" issue.

     First, let me say I was a little surprised by the lack of information on the web about these pistols, as well as the lack of parts. No one produces the parts anymore, and I will compare parts shopping to online junkyard purchasing.  Usable parts can be found but until you get em' and fit em' theres no telling.  A few days researching and tinkering later  I determined that when my Mauser would slam fire, it was caused by a weak trigger bar spring.  Which oddly enough is also the safety return spring.  I originally thought the problem could be with a worn trigger bar, or, maybe it was the ever so loose side plate.  But after playing with this thing long enough I figured out that If i held the safety down just a little bit, it would place a little more pressure on the trigger bar holding the firing pin in place!  Success!  No more slam firing(hopefully).

     Lets go ahead and make it known that these model Mausers 1910/14/34 have weak springs all the way around.  And its probably a good idea to replace, or have an extra set laying around if you own an older Mauser pocket pistol.  I chose the standard kit offered for the Mauser 1914 through Wolff springs. It included, and I replaced every spring on the gun.

     I still have not found an original grip to put back on this old piece of history, but when I do I will update this post.  I have also not decided If I will work on the aesthetics (bluing/pitting and side plate) either  But Shes in firing condition now!  So this week will be the real test when I fire it for the first time.

     These were the 1st two shots I have ever fired from this gun:

     

These shots were between 25-30 feet away from the target.  the first shot by me, the 2nd my best friend.  I took this target down for safe keeping and fired off about 5 more rounds that day with absolutely no issues with either functionality, or accuracy.  It will take a time or two more at the range, but I am seriously wondering if this gun is more accurate than my gen 4 glock 23...  Anyways It goes without saying this gun will not be leaving the family for a long time, and I am glad I was able to rescue it!  If requested I will do a complete YouTube video covering all of the Mauser 1914 parts, action, breakdown, and assembly of the gun if needed.   Thanks for checking out the blog, and leave them below!-  Brandon

Gen 4 Glock 23 review

     I picked up a new Glock 23 last week and thought I would share my opinion on it as well.  First off let me explain my decision on purchasing the Glock 23.  I wanted a gun that would "do it all" for me. A jack of all trades per say.  Something that had a lot of stopping power, concealable, but yet not too small for my bigger hands.  I also wanted something that would run smoothly, and be dependable.  A year back I purchased a Hi-Point c9 9mm pistol.  It was my first gun.  A very affordable almost cheap gun....  Well you get what you pay for. It was fun and easy to shoot, yet the gun would have issues either failing to feed, or eject, and really almost began to feel dangerous on the range.  Either jamming or requiring a bump on the slide almost every magazine. It also left me worried if I was ever in a home/self defense situation it might fail me or my loved ones when I needed it most.  So I decided it was time to upgrade, and picked out the Glock 23.

     A jack of all trades.  Used by law enforcement around the world.  A competition gun? Probably not.  But will it outshoot me?  Absolutely.  The gun is just fun to shoot, it packs a little more punch than the 9mm's, but it is very easy to get back on target after said recoil.  The gun feels great in the hand, as you can see in the picture I have one of the new factory hand grips(they come with a standard set with all gen 4 glocks). I love it, fits like a glove and keeps my hand from getting "bitten" by the slide while the gun cycles.  Speaking of the guns mechanics and cycling ability Glock has upgraded the recoil spring in the .40 to a dual recoil spring.  So far, no complaints.

     I have had no issues shooting around 300 rounds down range.  It certainly didn't mind the Winchester, or Perfecta ammo I put through it.  I have taken my CCW course shortly after buying this gun and still love it for what it is, but I am now considering something even more concealable.  Guns like the Kahr PM40, or possibly other smaller guns in smaller calibers. But we will see how this does for now.  P.S. While purchasing a "new" Glock you can always tell if it is direct from the factory or not by looking for the Glock factory gold lubricant shown here:

Comments?  Leave them below!  Thank you.

Addition...  Hi-Point firearms has contacted me and they have offered for me to send the c9 back, and they would make it right.  Kudos to them for good ol' made in the USA customer support!  But my Glock still isn't going anywhere!

Like this review?  Check out my review of a few modern bows here: Mathews creed VS

Dialing in the new 2014 Mathews Creed

 

It's March 6th, and spring gobbler season is right around the corner.  I've got to hustle to get my new Mathews Creed dialed in and ready for the hunt!

       I went out today after only shooting about 20 arrows through the Creed after I picked it up from the dealership... Its just been that cold!  Well today it was warming up, and after about 3 adjustments I almost had this thing right where I wanted it!  A few more tweaks and here's what 35 yards looked like!



Quick sight in tips:

1. take your time, shoot 3 or 4 arrows with good form.
2. pattern the arrows and then while adjusting the sight "chase the arrow".  Shot down?  Move the sight down.
3. When adjusting the sight only adjust one axis at a time.
4. Avoid getting fatigued and continuing to sight in your bow.  Shoot 15-30 arrows and call it a day.  You will be glad you did next time you go out!



Mathews Creed XS vs Bowtech Carbon Knight vs Mathews Creed

     Two weeks ago I ordered my brand new 2014 Matthews Creed in Crimson.  Notice I left out the XS?  Well, it's finally arrived.  I will start my review by saying I used to shoot a Martin Prowler...  A great bow but it was a 10 year old hand me down, and things went to hell last year after I got it restrung.  Long story short, I had to find a new bow.  One that shot excellent, had a lifetime warranty, and would see a lot of use.  I started my search online and saw the 2014 Matthews Creed XS in crimson.  It looked amazing!  And its a Matthew's, it has to shoot good right?



  2014 Mathews Creed XS
     So I went to the local Mathews dealership.  The 2014 Mathews Creed XS was on a rack, and the salesman was trying to show me it, along with a Mission bow.  While looking them over switching between the Creed XS and the mission bow down the rack I actually started picking up and looking at "youth bows".  It's hard to tell the difference!  The dealer actually recommended the mission if that means anything.  The speed on the Creed XS is nothing to go crazy about but it will get the job done  no doubt.  The draw...  When you get it back it tends to have a lot of creep.  By this I mean it wants to shoot, it wants to lurch forward from your draw, or anchor point.  Which may cause issues if your not used to that, shoot a couple hours a day, or haven't shot in some time.  I just didn't like that. The release is pretty smooth, but not the best of the bows I tested.  The Mission was almost exact but had a little vibration after the shot which I attribute to the lack of a stabilizer on the one tested.

2014 Bowtech Carbon Knight
     It's light, looks mean, and is fast as hell, what more could you want!?  Let me just sum this up with a few quick  points, and I have no bias.  It was my least favorite bow to shoot.  The Carbon finish left a bit to be desired but at 599$ what the heck, lets shoot it!  Shoot we did.  The draw back was ok with a little valley that had a nice let off and actually hit a nice back wall.  The release was unimaginable.  This light bow felt really violent immediately after I hit the release, and it jumped out my hand wildly.  I didn't like that, so much I didn't give it much chance after just a couple arrows.  It may be an accurate bow, but some of its standard accessories seemed a little cheap, and the wicked shot was enough for me to hang it back up.  It only weighs 3.2lbs.  Maybe if they added some weight it would settle down some.

2014 Mathews Creed(Crimson shown)
     The 2014 Mathews Creed was my favorite overall to shoot.  And in appearance was almost the same as the Creed XS, just 3 inches taller ATA.  While searching for a new bow, I shot many bows not listed above in the 400-1,000$ price range.  From PSE's, to Bear, Mission, Bowtechs, and Mathews.  I would've shot more but my local dealers did not carry them, and there is something to be said about local service after you purchase a bow.  I plan on owning this bow for years to come...  Now, this is not a "brand new" flagship bow, but this is not a bad thing.  Its been out a couple years now, and I'm sure any prior issues with this model have been ironed out.  It sure felt like it.  This year you also have the option of a few nice color options which, once custom ordered, brings the price to just about the same as the in my opinion inferior "flagship" Mathews Creed XS.  The draw is buttery smooth with a nice, subtle let off at 65lbs.  The back wall is absolutely solid, and while aiming it does not rock longitudinally like the XS has a tendency to do being 3 inches shorter. The shot on the original, even without a stabilizer is absolutely dead in the hand.(I didn't even bother buying a stabilizer)  I shot this bow and my hunt for a quality bow was over.  Video to follow?


    

My first Maryland waterfowl hunt!

     About 2 years ago I had the pleasure to meet Todd. We met at work, and I found out he was an avid Maryland waterfowl hunter.  We became good friends while working together, and he actually offered to take me duck hunting last year.  I had never been.  But I had a little tunnel vision last year.  It was September and deer hunting was the only thing on my mind.  While I was in the bug laden woods of Maryland and West Virginia trying to get that illusive early season buck Todd was nowhere to be found.  He was on the waters of central/western Maryland.  I thought he must be crazy, its deer season!  That was until I went with him a few days ago!  

     

     Deer season had come to an end, and I wanted something to hunt between deer and turkey season! I have shot skeet before, but never any sort of waterfowl..  So I got online, got my state, and federal migratory bird stamp, grabbed my old Mossberg, and away we went.  What a trip!  Although it was late season, and I only managed one goose, it was a rush!  As the sun came up I started to see more ducks/geese in one day than I have in a single day ever!  Flocks of Mergansers, Wood ducks, Mallards, Geese, hooded this, whats-it that.  My head was literally spinning.  A Maryland waterfowl trip is a must for any hunter.. 

     I was trying to take everything in, and maybe even learn a few things.  Every bird that flew by I focused in on waiting to take off the safety. Then we heard that familiar honking sound, it was a lone goose coming in about an hour after sunrise. It started to circle, and my heart started to pound.  It was coming into our decoys! It landed, and got right in line with our other decoys.  After 20 minutes, and no other birds headed our way everyone in the boat decided I should shoot the goose before it took off.  I got my first Goose that day, at about 20 yards...  Now I can't wait to see how it taste!  Oh yeah, I'm headed out tomorrow for another goose hunt......  This can't possibly addictive right!?

Video shot with the Drift HD Ghost.  More on that later...Stay tuned

Whitetail Deer Scouting

     If you want to have a successful hunt, you first have to scout out the area where you plan to hunt.  You just cant go out and put up a stand or a ground blind anywhere and expect to get lucky.  I like to start scouting towards the end of summer.  You have to first locate the deer.  This can be done a few different ways.  The first tip I have for you is to go out scouting after a good soaking rain.  It will make the ground muddy, and easier to spot tracks.  I like to go out "hiking" or squirrel hunting as an excuse to just get out in the woods and start looking around.  Maybe I'll jump some deer.  Or maybe I'll spot some big tracks along the side of a trail.  Then when I find a spot I think that would be good deer habitat a little distance off the beaten path (oak trees, acorns, lush thickets, corn fields, big tracks etc.) I start to look for sign.  Keeping my eyes on the ground...  I went out scouting yesterday and found some good sign.  Here are a few examples from my outing in the wildlife management area.

Tracks:  Let you know that deer have been through the area.  Are there a lot of tracks?  Is it a deer trail/highway, or is it just a lone wandering deer.  Are they big tracks or small tracks?


Left: picture taken
a few yards from the photo
above.





Right:  some old tracks, and some new probable yearling tracks.






 Droppings:  Are they old droppings, or are they fresh and moist, maybe even warm?  Fresh droppings let you know a deer has been though the area recently.  These were fresh, moist, and still had fly's and bugs on them...  A deer was here within the last day.

Rubs:  When buck begin losing their velvet sometime as early as September, and continuing throughout the winter bucks will begin to rub their antlers on trees and brush.  These antler marks found on the side of trees are what we call rubs.  I found this one last year on a farm I have permission to hunt.  Here in WV it is still a little bit early to be finding rubs and scrapes.  These let us know BUCKS are in the area.  We will look for more signs of these as we get closer to the opening day of archery season...  Have you been out deer scouting yet?  Seen any good deer?

Until next time- Brandon